Secret #12- show me your liscense and registration, please

"At a veterinary meeting I attended, it came out that more than half the vets there had not licensed their dogs, which is required by local law."

Well, this may be a case of  "do as I say, not as I do." Or perhaps "shoemakers wives go barefoot and doctor's wives die young."

My dogs are licensed. It is the right thing to do, and the legal one. I encourage my puppy owners to get their licenses. Vets should do the same. I hate to think that the lack of licesnsure is deliberate- we are all busy, and it's easy to overlook some things.

So, vets, let's be sure we "practice what we preach" and take all the right steps to keep our pets safe.

Enjoy your pets!

#7- where's my tricorder?

"Here's a pet peeve: owners who don't want to pay for diagnostic tests but then cop an attitude because you don't know what's wrong with the animal. Since you won't let me do the blood work or x-rays, how the heck do you expect me to know?"

Yep, I think we've all been there. Look, gentle readers, we vets are good at what we do, but we are not psychic, we do not have magic 8 balls with all the answers. What we have is years of training, years of experience, and great testing (diagnostic) options available to us.

Many of us would love to provide the diagnostics (and our time, and our technician's time, and our receptionist's time, and the light and the heat, etc) to you for free, but we can't, any more than you provide your services or time for free at your place of employment.

Here's the thing- excellent veterinary medical care is expensive. We can't get past it.

Step back- actually, excellent veterinary care is a really good bargain. Like I have said in a previous post, each of my c-sections cost over $15,000. The last c-section/spay I performed cost the owner $800. Cheap.

But here's the point the vet in the above quote is making- unlike human medicine, where it is between the doc and the insurance company which tests will be performed, in my office you are the responsible party. You say yes or no to the testing. You are faced with the budgeting.

Most of us vets understand living on a budget. We have it down. We will not berate you for not being able to afford something. Just don't act like it's our fault you can't afford it.

And don't get mad when we give you options for finding out what the issue at hand is, but cannot give you a definite answer when you can't agree to the diagnostics. It would be like calling my car repair place complaining of a noise in the engine, but not allowing them to open the hood or use a diagnostic tool. How can I expect them to know what's going on, let alone fix it, without all the information?

So until that great day when I get my tricorder, diagnostic testing like radiography, blood work and ultrasound will have to do. At a price.

Enjoy your pets!

Secret #2: Liar, Liar, pants on fire

"We know when you're twisting the facts. If your dog has a five pound tumor hanging from his skin, please don't tell me it wasn't there yesterday."

Well, yeah, generally a five pound mass (think, size of a melon) doesn't show up overnight. I might roll my eyes a bit.

Have a little faith in my professionalism. Intentionally lying, telling me it grew that fast will not make me treat you or your pet any differently. Neither will telling me you have been watching the mass grow for the last few months because you couldn't afford to bring it in, or you took the ostrich approach and hoped it would go away. We need to deal with the issue as it is today, and I for one will not waste time leveling a guilt complex on you.

Having said that- folks, most issues do start small. Then they get big. Some get so big they can no longer be fixed. Trust us- the small issues, brought up early, allow us time to fix things at less expense than trying to salvage something when the problem is huge. In other words- it's easier to remove a mass the size of a pea, or even a lemon, than one the size of a melon.



Enjoy your pets!

Secret #1: Big Dog/Small Dog

The quote:

"People always ask: 'How do you handle pit bulls and rottweilers and big german shepherds?' The truth is, the dogs that scare me most are the little chihuahuas. They're much more likely to bite."

I have jokingly said for years- ever since my stint as "kennel crew" that I am more worried about the small breed dogs that are aggressive than the bigger ones. The small dogs seem like they are more likely to bite without warning. They lunge fast. Sometimes they insist on biting my shoes even when we are all done with the doctor stuff.



But...big dogs that are aggressive tend to cause worse injuries. I have the scars to prove it. They can be much harder to restrain- imagine a 100 lb vet tech trying to hold a 150 lb dog, who does not want to be held, for a blood draw. Or a nail trim. It can get hairy.

I think the larger point is this- we all prefer to see the well-mannered, well trained dog come into the practice. Sure, we can deal with the nasty ones. We have muzzles and medication. But there is very little reason to joke- a bite from any pet can be terrible. And yes, this includes cats, ferrets, iguanas and birds.

Enjoy your pets!

Ovariohysterectomy

Whew! That's a big word for a post title! You can say spay if you'd rather- I use spay more than ovariohysterectomy myself. But I think it's a good idea to remember just what we are talking about. So let's break it down:

ovario- having to do with the ovaries (the organ that makes eggs and produces some hormones)
hyster- Greek for uterus (also the basis for words like hysteria and hysterical- think about that)
ectomy- to cut out

Therefore- an ovariohysterectomy is to cut out the ovaries and uterus. Spay. Sterilize. Alter. Fix.

Look, folks, this is major surgery. We veterinarians do it every day, in some cases dozens of times in a day. So we look at it as "routine" surgery. But it is in fact significant surgery. We open up the abdomen (belly) and take out organs. Organs that have a tendency to bleed. This takes education and skill.

I'm not here to whine, so I apologize for sounding whiny. Vets hear complaints about pricing so often that we develop some sensitivities about it. Add that to many people thinking that we are not "real" doctors and we can get a serious complex.

Here are the facts. We have a pet population problem in much of the country. One way to reduce pet population is to consistently spay and neuter our pets that are not going to be used for purposeful, conscientious breeding.

But as I have written before (and said many, many times) population control is not the only- or maybe even the best- reason to spay your pet. Health is.

Ovariohysterectomy. Removing the ovaries and uterus means we will never have ovarian cancer or uterine cancer in that dog or cat. If you spay young, preferably before the first heat, we almost eliminate the chances of mammary cancer. Yes, dogs and cats get breast cancer. It is hormone driven, and the risks increase with the first few heat cycles. If you wait to spay until they have had three or more heats, you increase the chances that they will develop breast (mammary) cancer later in life. And yes, breast cancer can kill dogs and cats.

If those reasons aren't enough, let me give you one more. Pyometra. Shall we break it down again?

pyo- pus, infected
metra- uterus

A pyometra is an infected uterus. Imagine a tube that is normally the size of a pencil swollen to the size of a summer sausage. Now imagine that sausage in your belly. Ouch and yuck, right?

Now imagine that there are two summer sausages side by side, connected at the bottom. The sausages are filled with pus, not meat. That's an infected uterus for a dog or cat. Some are closed pyometras, which means the pus stays inside the uterus until it bursts. That's awful, painful, and life-threatening. Deadly.

Or the pus can drain out. This might be a little less deadly in the short term, but imagine a constant stream of thick, smelly pus draining from your nether regions. Imagine feeling nauseous, urinating all the time, feverish, crampy, bloated....

Then imagine your doctor scheduling emergency surgery to remove this nasty, pus-filled, distended, tends-to-tear-and-leak-all-over organ. After normal hours. Or over lunch. The MDs bill would probably run in the tens of thousands range (my C-sections were each over $10,000). Your vet likely charges 1/10 of that for the emergency surgery. A "routine" spay at 4-6 months of age will cost significantly less than an emergency spay.

See why we push for ovariohysterectomies when pets are young? We want them to be well. We want to impact your budget less. Really.

Enjoy your pets!

No shots for you!

So, let's say you are totally, completely against vaccines. Or you are the proud pet parent of a dog who has allergic reactions to vaccines. Now what?

This is where the art of medicine starts to play more of a role. Each pet is an individual. And we, as veterinarians, need to keep this in mind and be ready to tailor protocols to meet the individual's needs, keeping health and safety in mind at all times. This, folks, is the basis of the concept of holistic medicine- treating the whole patient. We vets do it almost without thinking every day. There is very little that is set in stone for us.

Vaccines are very important. They keep our pets protected from life-threatening diseases, and some diseases that may not be life-threatening, but can be debilitating. These same vaccines also help protect the people in our pets' lives, as well. There are several diseases that we can catch from the animals in our lives. Rabies is one obvious one. Leptospirosis, a bacteria that affects the liver and kidneys, is another. If a pet is able to get a recommended vaccine, I strongly urge owners to comply.



But some won't, and some can't. So now what?

There are a few options for vaccines. If you have a dog or cat that gets a mild reaction to the vaccine (like hives or mild vomiting) we can pre-medicate with a steroid and Benadryl, or a steroid or Benadryl. This helps to decrease the immune system's response to the perceived immune trigger. Most of the time this seems to help.

If, however, your pet has had a more severe reaction, or has had a reaction despite pre-medication, we may consider other options. One option is to choose to stop giving vaccines. I cringe a little as I type this, because discontinuing the vaccines carries inherent risks. Therefore, anytime I have this discussion with a pet's people, I try to make it very clear that we are balancing risks and benefits, and in choosing to not vaccinate we are incurring some risks that need to be known. We are knowingly leaving a gap in out pet's immunity. The risk of life-threatening parvo or distemper in an adult, otherwise healthy dog that has at least had the puppy series of vaccines is probably fairly low. But it does exist. There is always a risk of being exposed to, and contracting, kennel cough. Or lepto.

Choosing to stop vaccines means most kennels and pet resorts will not board your pet. You may need to make other arrangements when you go out of town. Some groomers require up to date vaccines for grooming appointments. Don't be mad at them- they have responsibility to keep all of the pets in their care safe.

There are tests for the level of immunity in a pet's system. You may have heard of titer tests. If you are against vaccines on principle, you may have discussed them with your vet. Titer tests can be helpful, but they are not perfect.

A titer is the concentration of something. A titer test is a test to determine the concentration of that thing. The way this works with immunity, a blood sample is drawn at the vet's and sent to a laboratory. The lab technicians (or a machine) place drops of the blood sample into small vials. They serially dilute each sample. In other words, the vials will have all blood, 1/2 blood. 1/4 blood, 1/16 blood, 1/32 blood, etc. They then check to see at what dilution the blood sample stops reacting to an analog for the disease. The last one to react is reported back to us. I get a report that says something like- titer IgG parvo 1:400 (making up the details here). Then I compare that ratio number to what is generally considered to be protective immunity. This gives us a yes or know answer to the question: is my pet protected from this disease?
Sounds cool, right? Blood test says yes, there is protection, then there is no need to vaccinate this year. Blood test says no, then we need the shot. Great. Next patient, please....

Problem is this- titer immunity does not necessarily correlate to true protection. UGH

We use the test anyway. I get titer tested periodically to see if my rabies vaccines I got a decade ago are still effective. We send blood to Kansas to be tested for pets going to Hawaii or Europe- they must be rabies titered. But I don't titer my own pets in place of vaccines. I give the shots.

fotosearch.com

Why? I believe that the immunity given by the shots is important. I believe that the titers are useful, but not absolute. I believe that the risk associated with vaccines is much smaller than the risk of disease. I want to take advantage of the amazing, incredible protection modern medicine is able to provide. But that's my decision, for my pets. If you want to discuss the ins and outs of vaccines for your pets, I will. I have many pets that have altered vaccine schedules, a few that I do not vaccinate at all. Holistic. Individual. Tailored.

Enjoy your pets!

Shooting the grown-ups

I hope those of you who are checking this out now feel you have a better understanding of the importance of the series of puppy vaccines vets recommend. It's a fairly straight forward recommendation, and as for as I know pretty much every veterinarian makes the same recommendations.

Things get a little bit murkier once the pets are grown up- say, over a year old. This is where having one group making protocols that we all follow might help, but the independant nature of vets doesn't really allow that. For now.

Last time we talked about immunity, and the fact that when we give the last set of puppy shots, we expect the body to make and store a blueprint of the fighting factors it can use against specific diseases. These blueprints are stored for a time, but not forever. So we generally recommend vaccinating again about a year after the dog or cat had the last in the series of vaccines. This puts them in the office at about 1 1/2 years of age. They get their good, complete exam (which, frankly,  is the most improtant part of the whole visit), and a repeat of the shots they had as a youngster.

Which vaccines, you ask? OK, this is part of the variation.

Which vaccines are used can depend on several factors. Let's talk dogs first. There are three vaccines that are considered "core." These are the shots that are recommended for all dogs, regardless of lifestyle or where in the states they live. Those are rabies, parvovirus and distemper virus.

Then there are non-core vaccines. These can be given based mainly on lifestyle or location. Lyme disease, leptospirosis, bordetella, canine flu are included in this catagory.

vetmed.auburn.edu

Most vets will give core vaccines to every patient, then add non-core based on that individual patients needs. Lyme for those in lyme endemic areas or hikers, leptospirosis for those expected to be exposed to wildlife or standing water sources, bordetella for those who will be staying at a kennel or  going to the groomer. Canine flu is usually resaerved for dogs kenneled or shown. So this is why your veterinarian or vet tech/nurse will ask about lifestyle. We need the information to develop a plan to keep your dog safe.

Cats have two core vaccines- rabies and feline distemper, also called FVRCP, CVR, and a few other things. Plus non-core vaccines like feline leukemia, FIV, and FIP. The decision to add the non-core generally is based on whether your cat is indoor or indoor/outdoor. Be honest with your vet. We just want what is best for your cat. And yes, even cats that are indoors all the time need that exam and the core vaccines. Rabies is required in much of the country for all cats and dogs.

Sounds simple, right?

After that 1 1/2 year old appointment, things get tricky. The core vaccines have been reliably shown to provide immunity that lasts at least 3 years. But not all vets give the shots every 3 years. Some still give them yearly. Some give all three core shots once every 3 years. Some divide them up, so your dog gets one shot each year, on a rotation. Confused yet? I don't blame you.

Let's throw more into the mix. The non-core vaccines tend to have immunity that does not last 3 years. In fact, there's evidence that the bordetella vaccine may only last 6-8 months. So what to do? It depends. No, really. Some places require bordetella every 6 months, some yearly. The other non-core shots are generally boostered every 12 months.

So, the bottom line here is each veterinarian develops a protocol based on current information that he or she is comfortable recommending. Talk to your vet. Ask about the protocol they employ.

Here's my opinion at this time. The exam is the most important part of the whole vet visit. Yes, I can do a complete exam in just a few minutes. Usually while I'm taking to you, asking quiestions. That few minutes of exam is a distillation of 8 years of college and 12 years experience. I could make it take longer, but it wouldn't be any more complete. Just sayin'.

I come from a practice that has been using a 3 year rotating protocol for dogs. We do all core vaccines as puppies, and at the 1 1/2 year appointment. Then we divide them out- distemper, parvo, rabies- one each year on a rotating basis. This means fewer shots at each of those yearly visits. Non-core are all yearly, as needed based on lifestyle.

Cats get baby series, then both core vaccines at 1 1/2. Then FVRCP every 3 years, but rabies yearly. This has to do with the type of rabies vaccine we use for the cats. Ask us. Ask any of us vets at anytime. We are happy to discuss our vaccine protocols and the reasons behind them.

Enjoy your pets!

puppy shots

"The breeder told me he had all his shots."


grinninggoldens.com

There are few things clients say to me that aggravate me more. This one isn't the clients fault. Breeders who give out wrong information or are deliberately misleading about needed vaccines drive me nuts. Please don't get me wrong. There are many really good breeders, people who breed because they love a certain type of dog or cat and want to do it right- breeding for temperament, health and longevity.

But there are some people who don't know what they are doing. And they seem to delight in putting really bad information out there like it is gospel truth. For example- "the pup has had all needed shots" at 8 weeks of age. UGH

OK here are the facts. Puppies and kittens get antibodies (infection fighters) from their mother, if the mother was properly vaccinated. These antibodies provide immunity to the puppies. Newborns drink these antibodies in their mother's milk. The antibodies cross over the intestinal lining intact and get to work keeping the babies safe from common diseases. This is good.

This immunity from mom doesn't last forever. And thanks to some amazing scientists over the years, we have developed ways to re-create immunity. Our immune systems have memory. Once you have been exposed to and defeated a disease, the body keeps a blueprint of the successful disease-fighting agents on file. Then, if the same disease is found later, it can be fought off faster, sometimes before we realize we are sick. Vaccines take the place of the initial disease encounter. They are tailored to stimulate the immune system to fight off an invader that doesn't actually make us sick, but then the blueprint is still available to fight off the real thing, should it ever be encountered. Obviously, I'm trying to simplify a bit. I'm sure you can find more complete explanations, I just didn't want to copy an immunology text onto the blog. Maybe just one picture, for kicks and giggles:


wikipedia.com


Back to the puppies and kittens. Mom's immunity in their systems lasts a few weeks. But somewhere between six and fourteen weeks of age, that immunity goes away. The babies are now susceptible to diseases. Nasty, life-threatening things like parvovirus. This is where we step in.

Most puppies and kittens will start getting vaccines about 6-8 weeks of age. They really don't need them any earlier, except perhaps if they were never nursed. This is not a random age choice. This is the early end of the loss of mom's immunity. We will then booster the vaccine (re-vaccinate) every 3-4 weeks until the puppy or kitten is over 14-16 weeks old. There is science to this, I swear. The vaccine provides better immunity that mom's alone in this time frame, but the lingering effects of mom's immunity and the immature state of the immune system don't allow the blueprints to be stored long-term. So we have to remind the system what it needs to be prepared to fight.

One the puppy or kitten is over that 14-16 week mark, the immune system can be expected to store the blueprint longer, generally for about a year for most diseases. So we usually give the last set of vaccines at about 4-5 months of age. Then we can schedule spay or neuter (but that's a discussion for another day).

So there you have it. This is why I go slightly nuts when I am presented with a cute, fuzzy, 10 week old puppy and am told that he had all his shots.

Or picture this scene:

Pitiful puppy on the exam table, about 5 months old, thin, tired, dehydrated because she has spent the last few hours/days vomiting and having severe diarrhea. The parvovirus test is positive for the disease.


greenwichtime.com

Me: "Parvo is a virus that causes life-threatening vomiting and diarrhea. I can't treat the virus. All we can do now is support her system and hope that she can fight the virus off herself. She may die. And the treatment to try to save her life will be expensive."

Owner: "But the breeder said she had all her shots! They gave her her parvo shots!"

Me: "How long have you had her?"

Owner: "Since she was 8 weeks old."

See the reason for my anxiety? This is a preventable disease. Now the person in the above scene will need to find money to pay for treatment that might not work. The owner didn't know. She was making decisions based on the information she was given when she bought the puppy. If the breeder had done the responsible thing, recommended monthly visits to the vet to discuss care and get shots, this could have been completely avoided.

Enjoy your pets!

SHOOT!

Let's talk shots.

I like lemon drops. And my brother once got smashed on something called a Louisiana leg-spreader.

But that's not really what I want to discuss. Sorry. Instead, let's talk about the shots we vets give your pets. The vaccines.

Some people will have you believe that vaccines are not important for health. Some will tell you that vaccines are actually dangerous. Some will tell you that they are absolutely essential at every annual or semi-annual vet visit. So what is the truth?

The truth is fluid. We are constantly re-evaluating the risks and benefits of all vaccines. This is actually true on the human side of medicine as well as on my side. So there may be changes in the recommendations of which vaccines to give, when in life and how often to give them. Even the best methods to administer them. Vets "in the trenches" are left to shuffle through the evidence and the recommendations and develop protocols for our patients that we are comfortable with.

And herein lies one of the basic issues. I'm not exactly sure just how it works with people, but at the pediatrician level at least there appears to be one set code of rules for vaccines. These are set by a group and are followed by all pediatricians. Schools require that these codes are followed. There is consistency. Vets get recommendations from groups such as the American Animal Hospital Association or the Association of Feline Practitioners, but we don't have a group that we allow to set the rules that we all follow. Veterinarians are pretty independent by nature, and we don't like to be dictated to.

So this leaves us in something of a quandary. Where do we get our information? Who do we trust? Do we trust the companies that make the vaccines to have the best, unbiased information? We need to know the agenda of whomever we are trusting for the data that we use to set our vaccine schedules. We hope that our associations will look at all the evidence available and help develop recommendations that are based on good science. Are they?

This is why the protocols we all follow may change from time to time. We are all, as a group and as individual veterinarians within our own practices, continually re-examining the evidence we have at hand. We are sometimes slow to change, but that is because we need to be convinced that the change is safe and effective. So this month I want to talk shots. I will not claim to have all the answers. I may well ruffle some feathers. I hope to make you think just a little about some of the blanket statements you hear.

Then maybe we can go out for a lemon drop or two.

addendum

Helpful treat dispensers!  One way to help increase exercise for both cats and dogs is to get toys that make them move. There's an amazing variety of toys out there that will stimutate pets' brains, and keep their interest by occasionally popping out a treat. How cool is that? You can even consider putting the whole day's calorie content in a treat ball and letting your pet "hunt" for food all day long. Awesome!

Eat to Live, obesity part IV

OK, guys, so we've discussed how obesity is a health issue of epidemic proportions. And that it is our fault as pet parents. So what do we do about it? Well, the concepts are simple, but I'm the first to admit that the execution can be difficult. Not impossible, though, and well worth the time and effort you will invest.

An ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure. Sayings like this are out there because there is at least a grain of truth to them. Start early. Roly-poly puppies are cute, yes, but lean pups are healthier. I don't mean ribs-poking-out skinny, just not watch-the-fat-rolls-shift-as-he-runs chubby. Many puppies come from the breeder a little overweight. They are eating solid foods, but may still be nursing, so they can be over-nutritioned. That's OK, just keep in mind that you will want to monitor weight gain to allow them to slim down as they approach adolescence. In other words, we want to be sure the baby fat goes away.

For dogs, a complete, balanced puppy food will do fine until they either reach a year old or are spayed or neutered, at which time a complete and balanced adult dry food will be fine. A treat of canned food is ok, too, just be aware that the canned foods tend to be calorie dense. You can start with the recommended amount of food on the bag, but if your pet is spayed or neutered, or over the age of 3, he/she will likely need a smaller amount than their bag recommends. So be prepared to cut back. I like to recommend feeding at least twice daily, but you can certainly decrease the amount per feeding and feed more frequently, allowing your dog to share in mealtime patterns. Some vets will tell you that feeding carrots or green beans can add bulk and promote a feeling of fullness with each meal, or as a snack in between. I agree.

The prevention method is good for cats, too. But there are some differences. Cats have very limited calorie requirements compared to dogs. Cats require more protein than dogs do, so their food is higher in protein and sometimes fat. But dry food still has a large percentage of carbohydrates present (that's how it is made into dry food). An increasing number of veterinary nutritionists are recommending a paradigm shift- it is very likely healthier for cats to be on a canned food exclusive diet. I know, this is very different from what we have been told for years- dry food for dental health, right? Not so. Cats on canned food get more protein, which their bodies need, less carbohydrates, which their bodies do not need, and generally seem to do better. The canned food also forces more water into their systems, which is very helpful.

Starting kittens off on canned food diets is great. If you have an older cat who has only eaten dry food, she might not realize canned food is food. Don't panic, and don't force. We adjust all plans to suit the individual.

So, what to do with a pet that is already overweight? Diet, diet, diet. Start by talking to your vet. Make a detailed plan for calorie control, exercise, and periodic weigh-ins. You might be shocked at how much you will need to cut back in calories to get good weight loss, but we are not talking fad diets, or getting into those old jeans in a week!  Weight loss needs to be gradual. Especially for cats. Cats that loose weight too quickly can actually get sick. Their bodies mobilize fat, but instead of using it for energy, they store the fat in their livers, which makes the liver unable to function properly. This is called hepatic lipidosis, or fatty liver disease. It can be life-threatening. So proceed with caution. Dogs are more resilient, but we will get better long term results taking the weight loss slowly.

Good luck! And always enjoy your pets!

dailypets.co.uk

obesity part III- special effects

Obesity is not just cosmetic. It is truly an illness, and increases the chances of developing other illnesses. This is a true for our pets as it is for us.

Arthritis pain can be increased by obesity. All that extra weight increases the impact on joints, aggravating the pain that may have already been present from arthritis, hip dysplasia, or intervertebral disc disease.

surfdogrichocet.com

Diabetes is highly correlated with obesity in pets. Cats are at particular risk of this effect.

Hypertension. Again, cats are at particular risk of increased blood pressure. The hypertension, in turn can have terrible effects of other organs- kidneys and heart in particular.

Heart disease. If the heart has to work harder to push blood through more vessels supplying fat cells, it can show problems with it's ability to pump that blood effectively.

Respiratory (breathing) issues. Dogs that are overweight have an increased risk of cough. They tend to pant more- working harder to move those fat-covered ribs. They seem to snore more, too.

Infections. Skin folds create great spots for bacteria to overgrow and cause skin infections. Extra skin that flaps over the vulva can make dogs more prone to vaginal and bladder infections.

So, there you have it. None of this is new information, but it all leads into the importance of attaining and maintaining a healthy weight.

One last word today. Dogs can have a condition in which the thyroid gland (a gland in the neck that produces hormones that regulate metabolism) under produces thyroid hormone. This is hypothyroidism, and it can decrease the metabolism top the point that dogs gain weight even on reduced calorie diets. Cats are very rarely hypothyroid. Your veterinarian can do blood work to confirm or rule out hypothyroidism, and can prescribe medication when it is present.

Enjoy your pets!

Live To Eat, obesity part II

We like to eat. Americans eat as a social bonding experience. Think about it. We eat at weddings, at wakes, at birthday parties and office meetings. Food is a part of how we interact with each other. First date? Dinner and a movie. Or coffee and a sweet roll. How many people meet for a jog in the park to discuss their day? Some, I'll grant you. But not most.

Our pets are part of our families, and we like to include them in our social eating. They like to be included in it, too. My dogs certainly will sit near the table in hopes of a last bite finding its way to them. We enjoy knowing our pets enjoy their meals just like we beam at the compliments our human guests give the food we prepare for them.

This leads to a couple problems- contributors to obesity issues. The gist is that our pets take in too many calories. Those little bites of people food add up quickly. A single french fry could be the caloric equivalent of a Big Mac for small dogs or cats. I'm not saying you cannot ever give a small treat, but we all need to be very aware of what we are putting in our pets' mouths.

What's that you say? Your pets never get table food. Awesome. They certainly will not miss out on needed nutrients. The pet foods of today are, generally speaking, nutritionally complete in and of themselves. This is a good thing. Like those funny square things people ate on the original Star Trek series, the brown kibble in the bowl has everything a cat or dog needs, neatly packaged and very appealing to their senses. Well, maybe too appealing.

Who buys the pet food? (Insert eye roll here) This is actually a pertinent question. It leads to the deeper question- to whom do pet food companies market their product? You and I, of course. And what makes us want to but a particular brand. If it is "nutritionally complete and tastes OK" are we going to run out and get it? How about a commercial that shows a dog run to two bowls, sniff them over, then choose the "one on the right?" Yep, that'll do it. Just like the Coke vs Pepsi blind taste test commercials. We want to be complimented on our choice of dinner. We see the compliment in the way our dogs wolf down the food and look for more. It's like dinner guests getting seconds.

So why am I bringing this up as a contributor to obesity? Here's an analogy: Say I'm hungry. Put a salad in front of me. A nice salad, maybe romaine and spinach, tomato, cucumber, a little cheese, yummy vinaigrette dressing. I will eat it until I am full.

 Now put brownies in front of me. With chocolate chips. I will eat until I am sick.  This is the issue with highly palatable pet foods. The ideal pet food would be just yummy enough that out pets would eat what calories they need for the day. Our newer generation of foods, while still nutritionally sound, tend to be delicious like brownies. So our pets will eat themselves sick, or obese, given the opportunity.

We tend to live to eat, rather than eat to live. This is a societal problem. And fortunately, the cure for our pets is pretty straightforward- feed them less. They are not driving through McD's on a whim. We control their calories. If your dog is getting a bit "fluffy," cut back the calories in and maybe work on increasing the calories out.

Enjoy your pets!

Fat or Fluffy? obesity part I

Hi, my name is Kate, and I am obese. I am not alone. The stats they throw at us all day long say that 66% or more Americans are overweight or obese. This has rightly been labeled a health epidemic. There are many reasons for this problem of epidemic proportions, but it boils down to one or two simple issues. We like to eat. We like to eat too much. We like to eat too much of the wrong thing. Personally, I like sugar. In just about every form. Except mint- mint is yucky. Chocolate mint ice cream is just a waste of good chocolate.

We 66%ers take too many calories in. And we don't get enough good exercise to use them up. When the ins are higher than the outs, we get calories stored in the form of fat. Muffin tops. Love handles. Saddlebags. Bingo arms. You get the idea. Historically, bodies developed to store calories during the good times that would then be available for energy during the inevitable bad times. But in developed countries the bad times are pretty much non-existent.

So what does this have to do with pets, you ask. Everything. Our pets in the US share some of our health issues, and obesity is a big one. The same stats apply. As many as 66% of our cats and dogs are overweight and obese. So how can this be? My Bella doesn't get a sudden sugar craving at midnight, get into the freezer, pull out a pint of Ben and Jerry's and chow down. Nope. I feed her. So, again, how does she get fat? Where do we place the blame. Again, the basic issue is simple, but the context is a bit more complex.

Here's the thing. I am obese. My BMI is 31 (BMI is a height-to-weight calculation for people, you can find charts online). But my friends and family tell me I'm not obese. Not fat. They will occasionally agree that I am a bit overweight. Then they offer me dessert.

We are so used to seeing ourselves and others in a overweight state that we have lost perspective. We no longer know what is normal and healthy in our body types. This is true for our pets as well.  Many pet owners are so used to seeing their overweight pet they have no idea that it is not, in fact, normal. I frequently hear from pet owners with dogs of normal weight that they are badgered by friends, family and strangers about their dogs being underweight.

It's our fault. This is an important concept to get: our pet's obesity is OUR fault. We feed them. We overfeed and underexercise them. We have that control. So let's take that control back. In the end, we will have happier, healthier pets, who will likely be part of out lives longer.

Enough lecture for the moment. I will post part 2 soon. If you are interested in more information- like how to tell if your pet is overweight, exercise and diet strategies, and the long-term effects of obesity, talk to your vet. I will have an on-line lecture about weight issues linked through the website www.angelspaws.com. Feel free to listen to that one, and the other informational sessions Tammy Wynn and I are recording.!

Enjoy your pets!

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Cats is cats

So my daughter explained to me yesterday as I was driving her home from the grocery store that she feels we should adopt a litter of kittens.

"How many?" I questioned

"I don't know, maybe ten. That way, they would all be friends, and if they weren't friends, we could give one away." Good 5 year old logic.

I like cats. Cats are like chips- most of us don't have just one. And they'll make more. There certainly isn't a dearth of kittens out there. Those of you who have experienced litter mate kittens playing together know just how much fun they can be. They bring joy to our life.

I grew up with Siamese cats, named for characters from Anna and the King of Siam. Then we added a rabbit to the mix. The rabbit lived in the house, free-roaming with the cats. Now some of you might be concerned that the cats would attack and possibly kill the poor bunny. We had some concerns, too. Until the rabbit took one look at the cats and attacked. Not in a Monty Python Search for the Holy Grail attack rabbit way, more of an annoying aunt backing you into the corner and talking your ear off kind of way. He backed those cats up and stared at them They hissed and hit him. He cocked his head to the side and wiggled his nose. The cats jumped over him and ran!

The cats could be seen huddled on the stairs, watching the rabbit hop down the hall. We think they were plotting his demise. Eventually, they reached a sort of truce and left each other alone. But the antics still make us grin.

And don't tell me animals don't have logic skills.

There was a period of time I made pets of field mice (yes, I was a little odd). I kept one in a cage in my room. On a bookshelf, 3 shelves up. One cat, Rorshack by name, black and white like an inkblot test, would sit on the floor in front of the bookcase, stare at the mouse in her cage, and plan his climb. He would look at the first shelf, turn his head slightly like he was imagining walking across the shelf, then look up to the second shelf. Then he would try his approach. Jump to the first shelf. Walk along the books. Attempt to get paws into position to get to next shelf. Fall to the floor. Sit on the floor and re-try the plan. Logic.

So, yes, I really like cats. But I don't want ten right now.